![]() And during the focus and recompose process a few centimeters movement can ruin the focus. I tend to get really close to my subject with the 18mm lens to get a shallow depth of field. I get far better results when I select the focus point to be on the correct spot in the frame compared to focus and recompose - especially with the XF 18mm lens. You should also get very comfortable to use focus point selection. So there might be situations where it can be helpful to increase the size of your focus point. How annoying would it be if you focus at an eye, but the AF chooses the nose as it happens to be in your focus area, too?Ī larger focus point will however increase the chance that it can focus on something in critical focus situations as described in 1. This way I reduce the potential for focus error in situations where the focus point covers too much of a subject. In electronic viewfinder mode (EVF) I set my focus point (focus frame) to its smallest size (push the AF button and turn command dial to the right). This car was driving parallel to me and the AF of the X-Pro 1 did not have any problems to lock focus on the first tryĬhoosing you focus point is critical. It took me some time to figure this out, but you can give it a try on your white bathroom tiles as a hands on exercise to remember this. ![]() In vertical orientation (portrait orientation) look for a horizontal line to focus on. ![]() Therefore you should aid the X-Pro in horizontal orientation (landscape orientation) to find a vertical line on the subject for your AF point to focus on. Think of the AF to work like a split screen focusing screen on aĬlassic SLR camera. In those situations you need to remember that the contrast autofocus of the X-Pro 1 does not focus like a cross type These situations could be a very low contrast object like a plain wall, low light or backlight behind your subject. So is the X-Pro 1 useless for moving subjects? Not at all! You just have to approach things differently to get good results! Here are my tips to get the best results from the X-Pro 1:Īlthough the X-Pro 1 will generally focus without a problem in good light, there are situations where you need to aid the AF to lock onto your subject. The continious contrast detection AF on the X-Pro 1 did not yield good results for me when set to AF-C (continuous) mode. The advantage of phase detection AF is, that it is better at tracking subjects, especially if they move towards or away from you. I found that in those situations the contrast autofocus is usually spot on the first time while the phase detection AF needs a few pushes and a series of images to get a perfect result. Still hear movement? If so you are hearing the lens readjusting every time. Did you hear the AF in the lens moving (pumping)? And give it a third try. Now press you shutter (or designated AF button) once untill you get the focus lock feedback. Then open the aperture all the way and look for a subject about 1 m (3ft) away. Take your DSLR and your fastest lens - a 50mm lens with f/1.8 or faster would work great. On my phase detection DSLR camera I have gotten used to pushing the shutter half way for 2-3 times before I trust that the AF locked correctly onto the subject. The advantage of contrast detection is, that it is very accurate when it locks onto the target. And in those situations perfect AF lock isĮssential for good results. As I haveĪperture to create a shallow depth of field. The X-Pro 1 uses contrast detection autofocus (CDAF) compared to phase detection autofocus that is usually found in DSLR cameras. No, you don't have to fake it like this in order to take photos of moving subject with the X-Pro 1 )
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |